CLIMBING IN TAVOLARA
Tavolara is a paradise for those who have climbing in the DNA. The great valley called 'pratone' is culled by two limestone peaks called Punta Cannone (564 meters) and Punta di Lucca (541 meters), it is the latter which gives us an excellent rock where in the early years of 2000 Enzo Lecis made the historical multi-picth, protagonist of the history of climbing in Sardinia. The via is a multi-pitch (7 in total) with a 215-meter difference in altitude on the Tavolara ridges. The via is named 'Affora Sa Nato', clearly referring to the presence of the NATO base which controls half of the island.
Approach
From the beach of Spalmatore di Terra we move along the small cliff in east direction. Walking on a wide path that at a certain point (past a scree and reached the lime kilns) intersects a small trail. This is the most direct path leading to the starting point; this goes back to the slopes of the island (when you meet a crossroads hold the right by continuing the ascent) overtaking the first rocky ledge with a stony segment and a 'staircase' (juniper ladder). At the end of the ladder it rises for a few meters in altitude, meeting the other path that comes from Punta della Mandria. We keep the left (northeast direction) and in 20 minutes we reach the starting point.
Itinerary
The itinerary has been well described by Maurizio Oviglia on Planet Mountain. Here we describe its description of the Way:
Along the climbing trail to Punta Cannone, when it first touches the rocks of the W wall of Punta Lucca, do not stick on a plain with visible spit but up to twenty feet upstream, right at the rounded spur, before the path takes a short hairpin. The first spit is about ten feet from the ground, hardly visible. Below there is a small juniper with an hourglass cord.
Go up the spur for a beautiful rock for 25 meters (spit and hourglass), then a short crossbar to the left leads to S1, 30m (5c). Move on a vertical plaque, then a firm left hand, then straight towards a sapling on the right, coming out on a cog, S2, 30m (6a +). For a passage between the trees overcome a wall of beautiful rock and then a slit to a new bush, S3, 30m (6a). To the right, climb a beautiful dialect, S4, 30m (6b). To the left, in a gap, an old and rude nut, probably Bodo Habel, is visible. Straight right to the base of a beautiful plaque. Overcome by jumping on a pulpit, S5, 30m (6a). Enter the easy basin and move to the right on the NW crest, where the ridge rises, S6, 30m (4c). Get on the edge of the edge for a nice slit to the top, S7, 35m (short step 6a).
In the pictures there is Maurizio Oviglia.
The Itinerary is on Planet Mountain: Planet Mountain
Always on Planet Mountain is possible to take a look at the trad of Luciano Stenghel qui: Planet Mountain
Descent
From the summit 'Punta di Lucca' you have to follow the crest line in the south-east direction descending along the saddle. You will first meet a spot for a rappel (30 meters), this leads at the end of a small via ferrata. If you want to get off by via ferrata, you should walk 40 meters moving towards Punta Cannone (easy to recognize for the white statue of the Madonnina di Tavolara). A red arrow marks the beginning of the ferrata that ends at the end of the rappel. You can now get back with the same trail of the beginning.
